The Completely Unscientific Guide to Reykjavík Area Swimming Pools

First, some important cultural context. Icelandic swimming pools are not your usual “swimming pools.” They are community centers where people discuss politics while sitting in geothermal water wearing absolutely nothing but a tiny pants and a strong opinion.

And yes, you must shower naked before entering. Icelanders take this more seriously than tax law. All public pools have gender neutral private changing rooms available for those who need them, just ask at reception.

From Refurinn Reykjavik Guesthouse, you are actually in an excellent position to sample Reykjavík’s entire hot-tub sociology ecosystem.

Vesturbæjarlaug

Distance from Refurinn: About 15-20 minute walk

Best way to get there: Walk through the lovely old west side of Reykjavík and pretend you live here now.

This is the pool locals will insist is “the best one” in the same tone Italians discuss their grandmother’s pasta sauce.

Vesturbæjarlaug has strong neighborhood energy. People know each other. Retired men occupy the hot pots like tiny geothermal warlords. Young Reykjavík parents arrive with terrifyingly athletic children. Someone is always training for a triathlon. Someone else has been sitting in the exact same hot tub since 1998.

The vibe:

• Cool but not trying too hard

• Slightly hipster

• Lots of locals. Lots of celebrities

• Least touristy of the central pools

  
  

Amenities include outdoor pools, hot tubs, sauna, steam room, cold tub, children’s area and even infrared sauna facilities.

If you want to feel like you have discovered “the authentic Reykjavík experience,” this is your pool.

Sundhöllin

Distance from Refurinn: About 25 minutes on foot

Best way to get there: Walk uphill toward Hallgrímskirkja and reward yourself with hot water afterward.

Sundhöllin is Reykjavík’s elegant old lady. Built in the 1930s, it has major “European bathhouse with emotional depth” energy. And a terrifying diving board.

The newer outdoor section is excellent, especially in bad weather. Icelanders firmly believe storms improve the pool experience, and honestly, after ten minutes sitting in hot water while freezing rain hits your face, you may start agreeing with them.

Facilities include indoor and outdoor pools, hot tubs, sauna, steam room, diving boards and cold tubs.

Crowd profile:

• Downtown Reykjavík people

• Architects

• students

• tourists trying to “do Iceland properly”

• one incredibly fit 78-year-old doing butterfly laps

  
  

Laugardalslaug

Distance from Refurinn: About 10-15 minutes by bus or 45 minute walk

Best way to get there: Bus is easiest unless you are aggressively committed to your daily step count.

This is the giant one. The Mother. The Disneyland of Icelandic municipal swimming pools. The final boss of hot tubs.

If Reykjavík pools were universities:

• Vesturbæjarlaug is liberal arts

• Sundhöllin is philosophy

• Laugardalslaug is a massive state school with excellent sports facilities

  
  

The crowd is everybody:

• families

• athletes

• tourists

• exhausted parents

• school groups

• very serious lane swimmers

• people who appear to have come only to sit silently in 42°C water and stare into the middle distance

  
  

If you only visit one pool and want the full Icelandic pool experience, this is probably the safest choice.

Árbæjarlaug

Distance from Refurinn: Around 20 minutes by car or bus

Best way to get there: Bus or car.

You are now entering “actual neighborhood pool” territory. Árbæjarlaug feels wonderfully suburban. This is where Reykjavík families go on weekends when children need to burn off alarming amounts of energy. There are slides, hot tubs, pools and enough space to avoid feeling packed in.

You are unlikely to encounter many tourists here. Which is surprising, giving that this is the only pool where you can sit in hot water while simultaneously enjoying sweeping views of the entire city.

Breiðholtslaug

Distance from Refurinn: About 20 minutes by car

Best way to get there: Bus or car.

Breiðholtslaug has a slightly underrated reputation. It is less polished than some of the more famous pools, but honestly that is part of the charm. The crowd is wonderfully mixed and very local. This is not a “travel influencer in a beige hat” pool. This is a “people actually live here” pool.

Excellent if you want:

• fewer tourists

• more space

• a proper neighborhood atmosphere

• Terrifying water slides

  
  

A Few Tips:

• Do not skip the pre-swim shower. If you are shy, ask for a private changing room.

• Hot tubs are organized by temperature. The hotter the tub, the older and more opinionated the conversation.